Cuenca Ecuador: A hidden cafeteria tucked away in the center of the city

A number of years ago when working on a book about Ecuador, an expert on Ecuadorian cuisine commented to me that in general many Ecuadorians often ate at the new flavor of the month in terms of restaurant fare, that they were impressed with the new and fashionable. She also explained that under the radar so to speak were establishments of some who were very old and non nondescript, that really provided some of the best examples of old style Ecuadorian food for the palate. Each time I visited Quito this knowledgeable person would haul me off to areas that very few expats or tourists would ever venture off to and it was always an adventure in cuisine to be savored.

This is true throughout many of the larger cities in Ecuador, where there you will find an “oasis of tradition” that holds fast to their values. Writers Pedro Orellana & Pamela Abad describe such a place right smack dab in the middle of Cuenca, that most outsiders would not notice. My friends Brandon Keene and Don Nadie two of my most valuable resources for Ecuador and Cuenca, first told me about this place a few years ago. When in Cuenca I never miss the joy of eating there at least once. Here you will find the real Ecuador, time tested and not willing to bend with the newest fashion waves, like a strong tree that outlasts all the storms. N.C.

A Cafeteria that refuses to change with the tide of tourism.

Pedro Orellana & Pamela Abad/gkillcity.com

In this café, located in the Centder of the city, it is the owner who is always right.

In the hectic and cordial gala offered daily by the historic center of Cuenca, passersby who mobilize around face repeated and eternal dilemma of romance: go with the steamy waters of the superficial, deciding to penetrate the most pampered facades or the newly operated to obtain satisfaction immediately and safely; or choose the risky but noble path that leads to less bombastic houses; “class B” buildings. Them less extroverted and pompous, denying the use of the rouge, the streamers and confetti, waiting calmly funny who wisely accepted the challenging invitation.

Jhuly, a cafeteria that without being especially endowed with the qualities that are convincing to the average guest, manages to display without suspicion snacks that like a vast spectrum of palates. Its long and narrow, lined with mustard-colored mosaics, Hall is a gateway that parade mature cheese, fresh mix which will be the tortillas of corn seen bubbling in the metal compartments of Vitrines and shown promise with photographs and prices for a seductive menu of typical food, whose recipes resist the passage of time and fashions.

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To cross the threshold that divides the hallway with the vast and airy internal courtyard, mosaics turn floral, pastel spring colors. Jhuly opens generously to the brave and perseverant adventurer looking for a table in the surprisingly busy establishment. Read Article

Calle Hermano Miguel, entre Córdova y Sucre (Cuenca)